Thursday, January 28, 2010

A Day in Paris

After our week of gluttony in Spain, Maria, Joshua, and I flew to Paris. There's nothing like trying to communicate in Spanish for a week to make French seem easier! From Paris, Joshua went to Champagne, Maria went back to Moulon, and I went to Normandy. However, I had about eight hours of layover in Paris to do a tiny bit of sightseeing.


Had to take the typical shot...



l'Arc de Triomphe


le Louvre
La Pyramid du louvre




Le Centre Pompidou

La Seine

Sacre Coeur

The Eiffel Tower from afar.

The few hours I spent in Paris only made it more obvious how much I need to visit the city in earnest!

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Spanish Cuisine

To describe out gustatory experience in Spain, I first need to note than none of us is very "Spain Savvy." Everything I know about Spanish culture was gleaned from my Fifth-Grade stint in Spanish Time. Of course, these classes were mostly focused on Latin American culture. So, it was only very late in our trip planning process (in Spain, actually) that we started talking about what we wanted to eat. Tacos? No, it was decided by everyone, tacos are not Spanish. Cervezas? Probably Spanish. Spanish culture illiterates or not, we still enjoyed some excellent meals.

Foraging for sustenance was an essential part of our trip. We always seemed to be hungry hours before mealtimes. (The Spanish eat dinner around 9p.m. or later.) Then, once it was finally late enough to eat, we spent further hours trekking through the city looking for the best, and cheapest, restaurants.

For our first meal, we asked for a recommendation from a friendly bartender. She directed us to a more pricey tourist trap. We had been starving for hours and only held out till about 8:30. Thus, we were the only people in the restaurant for our entire meal.
I ordered at random and ended up getting a meager serving of scallops with "sea foam."
The next day we ate at an inexpensive Italian restaurant. Certain members of the party were overjoyed that smoking is (disgustingly) allowed even inside of restaurants in Spain.
Fish with Salsa Verde.
Chocolate loaf?
Turron, almond candy, originates in Valencia. It can either be hard or soft but what we tried had the consistency and taste of almond fudge. It was great!
Paella is the most well-known dish of Valencia. It usually consists of rice and various seafood. The one I ordered came with chicken because I can't stand eating shrimp that still have the head attached. They look at me as I eat them!
A pear and goat cheese salad that I had on Christmas morning. Despite all efforts, we seemed to gravitate towards French cuisine.
Ravioli and curry. The ravioli are in the shape of hearts. Aww.
Yes, this was one serving.
We couldn't leave Spain without trying the famous "Agua de Valencia." It consists of orange juice, gin, vodka, cava, and sugar. It was excellent!

¡Adiós!

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

I don’t Think, Therefore I am a French Student

Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité. Even the most the most cursory knowledge of French culture assembles these three indissoluble national principles of freedom of expression (perhaps along with a few strains of Edith Piaf and an order of Freedom Fries.) Whether you are a Francophile, or you studied French theory in your high school and college Gen Eds, the names Décarts, Voltaire, Montesquieu, Rousseau, Diderot, Hugo, Baudelaire, Rimbaud, Proust, Sartre, Camus, or Simone de Beauvoir probably mean something to you. The profound and often revolutionary works of French philosophers, artists, and authors has, without question, radically influenced the way the world thinks today. So now I ask, based upon my personal experiences as a student in a French university, how have the French gone so wrong?

I began my studies this semester at the University of Toulouse le Mirail full of naïve and grandiose hopes of esoteric discussions on the merits of existentialism and lively student uprisings against Sarkozy’s Orwellian dictates. These expectations weren’t unmerited; le Mirail has a reputation as the most liberal university in France. Thus, I was surprised by the grade on my first paper, an essay about an article espousing a central European University. The paper was riddled with red marks like a “No Shooting” sign by the side of the highway is filled with bullet holes. Entire paragraphs were scratched out and the piece was headed by the despairing comment “Erreurs Grossières” or, “Big Problems.” I stayed after class bearing my shameful essay like a scarlet letter.

“Oh yes, your paper,” the professor said distractedly with more than a hint of contempt. “You added ideas that weren’t in the article. That’s not to be done in my course.”

No original opinions concerning articles about polemic subjects? I tried valiantly to digest this concept, but couldn’t quite stomach it. A few weeks later, I was asked to write an open-ended essay for the midterm exam of my grammar course. The inane subject was “What role should a father, as a man, take in raising his son?” I went off on a self-righteous rant about feminism, the Hollywood obsession with machismo, and the growing presence of non-traditional families. I admit, I may have overdone it. The paper was returned with a good grade, but with one ominous comment at the end reading, “This is a grammar course” and several heavy question marks next to my main points.

I got bored. I started to create conflicts with professors over banal subjects. We discussed the enthralling topic “Do you like football?” and I responded with a scathing comparison between France and the falling Roman Empire. We talked about advertisements and I tried to start a debate about the subconscious. My role as the perpetual and erudite Devil’s Advocate never got very far and probably annoyed everyone. Perhaps, I thought, I should start to keep my head down.

Despite this new avowal, I couldn’t restrain myself from going entirely overboard for my French literature class. Charged with a short presentation about Symbolism, I read the biography of Baudelaire, revisited most of Les Fleurs du Mal, and wrote an elaborate comparative lecture about Baudelaire’s influence on Symbolism. I delivered the presentation with all the academic pomp and excitement of a visiting professor. After only three short minutes, however, the professor stopped me mid-sentence. Like a cowboy breaking a spirited horse, she tore my presentation apart piece by piece in front of my classmates and admonished me for “wasting everyone’s time.” My request for a meeting concerning my failed presentation was met with a rushed rendez-vous that consisted of the professor reading the presentation instruction sheet more loudly than I could ask questions. She roughly palmed and quickly discarded the books I showed as my sources saying I “would only confuse myself and the other students” by citing theses texts. “I would do better,” she said while hastily donning her coat, “to read Henri Mitterand,” a high school text that I already studied two years ago.

“You are the only student in the entire year that didn’t understand this assignment,” she lamented. “I don’t know why.”

Well I do. The reason I didn’t write a satisfactory presentation is because I honestly do not understand the purpose of the assignment. That is to say, I cannot understand what purpose this absolute suppression of free thought in the French educational system could possibly serve. Perhaps it is some sort of “Wax on wax off” theory that mindless repetition will later lead to greater artistic capability. But I don’t think so. The snuffing-out of the creative flame in the dictatorship of the French classroom is carried out with such systematic efficiency, such gleeful authority, that I believe this to be a direct attack on the intellectual health of the country, a definitive end to France’s illustrious academic past. My experiences in the French classroom have deeply disturbed me.

I can only hope that this first impression of French higher education is unique to my particular classes and university because today, without any sentiment of nostalgia, I submitted a transfer application to the rigorous political science school l’Institut d’Etudes Politiques. Included with my transcripts, letter of motivation, and CV is a small sealed envelope. It contains an academic evaluation completed by my professors from the Mirail. I have not opened the envelope because, as my professors and I can finally agree, I have no desire to read a biased essay.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Christmas in Spain

"Belated Merry Christmas!"
For the first week of the Christmas vacation, I went to Valencia, Spain with my friends Joshua and Maria. We chose the destination almost at random, attracted to Spain by the idea of moving south to warmer weather. Like typical Francophiles, we neglected to recognize that, even though Spanish, like French, is a foreign language, it has a few salient differences. These misconceptions were quickly corrected within seconds of arriving: "Perdón señor, donde esta el....um...um... auberge de jeuness?" Nonetheless, we managed to get around fairly well and had a wonderful time!

The Streets of Valencia

The Christmas Market
There was lots of pretty graffiti in Valencia.
The architecture was gorgeous and very distinct from what we usually see in France.
We spent a lot of time wandering the streets looking for stores and restaurants.







This is a clear fountain that is like a window into the museum of old Valencia below. We had a guided tour and learned about the Roman and Moor influences on the city.

Poinsettias and Palm Trees
The capitol building at nighttime.

La Llotja

The interior of La Llotja de la Seda, a gothic church that is a world heritage site. It was also only five feet away from our hostel.
The exterior of la Llotja de la Seda.


Baroque Churches

We stumbled upon this path that led us on a tour of four Baroque-style churches. Follow the white Baroque road!
I was really upset because photography is "strictly forbidden" in almost all the museums and churches in Valencia. This, of course, just made me want to take more pictures. This is a photo from the inside of one of the Baroque churches from my Illegal Series.
My best illegal photo.

The National Ceramics Museum

We went to the National Ceramics Museum (where photos are allowed). From what I understood from my me-Tarzan-you-Jane conversation in Spanish with the security guard, it is the former house of a Marquis. This is the entrance.



An entire ceramic kitchen with an indoor well.
A plate by Picasso.
...
This was our room in the hostel.
Our living room.
The hostel's ballroom.
It's true, modern art is scary after so much classicism.

Bullfighting

Valencia's bullfighting ring. Bullfights usually take place in the summer season so we did not see one.
An illegal photo inside of the Bullfighting Museum.
We were struck by how huge the bulls are. I would definitely not want to be even close to the ring.

Journey to the City of Arts and Sciences

To get to the City of Arts and Sciences we walked along a dry riverbed that has been transformed into a long park.

Because of the insufferable Christmas heat, Joshua and Maria stopped to wipe the sweat from their brows under this orange tree.
It was simply too sunny.

This children's park is designed to look like Gulliver.
A blue-roofed church.
The City of Arts and Sciences is Valencia's main modern attraction. It consists of a theatre, a botanic garden, an i-max, a science museum, and Europe's largest aquarium.
The Theater
The botanical garden is on the right with the Science museum on the left.

Inside of the aquarium. There were all sorts of innovative exhibits where you could crawl through tubes in fish tanks or poke your head into a plastic bubble.
This was the cleanest aquarium ever. We saw a great dolphin show with four trainers and eight dolphins.
Ugly American
Does anyone know the name of this animal that was in the shark tank? The signs named it a "sun fish," but I feel like something was lost in translation.
There was also a slow motion video loop of the sharks eating things. I won't ever go back in the ocean.
The shark tunnels were extraordinarily long.
The i-max was some occidental fabrication with heavy racist undertones about rafting down the Nile. What's important, however, is that we looked awesome in our headphones.

Christmas Day

One of those times when you hope that life really doesn't imitate art.
For Christmas morning we ate at this small café.
Late Christmas day, we walked along the Mediterranean Sea.


I have another installment just about the food we ate in Spain. Moving back to France, here's a photo of the frozen fountain about a block from my door. It's so much colder here than in Spain!
Bonne Année!